When Miss Darcei, an African American beauty influencer, opened a PR package from TIRTIR, a Korean cosmetic brand, she discovered that the foundation’s darkest shade was nowhere near her skin tone. This was not a new experience for her; she had previously received PR packages from other K-Beauty brands, such as Hera and Kahi, and, unsurprisingly, each foundation shade looked like white paint against her face.
Miss Darcei is not the first influencer to voice concerns about the lack of diversity and inclusion in K-Beauty foundation ranges. As K-Beauty expands into global markets, PR experts at Korean firms have faced multiple instances of influencers—particularly those with darker skin tones—expressing dissatisfaction with the limited foundation shade options and openly criticizing them. While some were shocked by what K-Beauty brands considered “dark,” others argued that non-Korean influencers like Miss Darcei were in no position to dispute the brands’ choices. After all, “it is marketed towards Korean people,” one comment on Miss Darcei’s TikTok video reads.
However, this shouldn’t be a justification for K-Beauty brands to neglect their responsibility toward a global consumer base. While a brand may be locally based, targeting primarily local consumers and catering to the demands of a local market, it is a different matter when a brand aims for a global audience. By sending PR packages to non-Korean influencers, K-Beauty brands have clearly shown their ambition in reaching international consumers.
One must also consider the strict beauty standards in Korea, where pale skin is idealized and darker shades are often viewed unfavorably. It is not surprising that individuals with darker skin tones, such as Southeast Asians and people of African descent, are often relegated to the lower tiers of social status, while lighter-skinned foreigners are seen in a more positive light. Although racism in South Korea has a different history than in the West, it would be a mistake to portray Asia as a racism-free utopia or to dismiss criticisms of discriminatory practices. K-Beauty brands should be subjected to criticism of racism if they want to market themselves outside of the more conservative consumer base in South Korea.
Fortunately, some brands are starting to change. TIRTIR has significantly expanded its range of foundation shades and even invited Miss Darcei to become its brand ambassador. Other brands, such as LANEIGE, have similarly broadened their foundation lines to include a wider variety of shades. If K-Beauty brands are serious about entering the global market, they must consider Korea’s own history with race and adapt to a world that increasingly demands diversity and inclusion.
